nims dai
Nims Dai

New history in mountaineering has been recorded on Tuesday by Nirmal Purja (Nims Dai) after he scaled upon the summit of Shishapangma. He is the first man to have stepped onto the world’s all 8000 meters peak in a limited span of time- 190 days. 

The 36-year-old former British army soldier, Nirmal Purja, has come to international attention this year with the publication of his shocking photograph of a queue of climbers close to the summit of Everest. He is also widely recognized for his photo of the ‘traffic jam’ on Mt Everest dated May 25, which went viral across the world. In 2012, Purja set his eyes on the giant Himalayas and immediately fell in love with climbing the big peaks. 

Climbing all fourteen 8000 meters peaks has ever been the paradigm of mountaineering aspirations since legendary Italian climber Reinhold Messner first completed the feat in 1986. He took 16 years to do so. Purja completed the last of his 14 climbs to the summit of Shishapangma in China, at 8.58 am local time on Tuesday. The summit completion day was almost exactly on the schedule predicted by his support team last week. 

He shared a post on his Facebook page, “Mission achieved!”,  publicizing about the successful climb with his team on Tuesday. “At 8:58 hrs local time, Nims and his team reached the summit of Shisha Pangma.” Purja used supplementary oxygen during his summit. 

Shishapangma, at 8,027m, in China was the last among the world’s 14 eight-thousanders in Purja’s list. 

Nims Dai
Nims Dai

With this ascent, he broke the record that was set by the South Korean climber Kim Chang-ho.

Kim Chang-ho was the first South Korean to climb all eight-thousanders without using supplemental oxygen. He accomplished the feat in 2013 after seven years, 10 months and six days time period.  He was killed in a snowstorm at the base camp of Mt Gurja in Myagdi district in western Nepal in October 2018.

Besides Kim, Polish Jerzy Kukuczka was the first mountaineer to climb all 14 eight-thousanders. This was a feat he achieved in seven years, 11 months and 14 days in 1987.

Purja and his expedition had been granted a special permit to scale Shishapangma in the fall season by the Chinese authorities, at the request of the Nepali government. Purja set off for Tibet on October 18 from Nepal, leading a five-member expedition to climb Shishapangma and complete Project Possible.

In May, Purja had already mounted Annapurna I (8,091m), Dhaulagiri I (8,167m), Kanchenjunga (8,586), Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu. In the following month, he scaled Nanga Parbat (8,126m), Gasherbrum I (8,080m), Gasherbrum II (8,036m), Broad Peak (8,051) and K2 (8,611m), Manaslu (8,163m), Cho Oyu (8,188m).

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